GENERAL INFORMATION

Serial Number Location
The frame serial number (VIN - Vehicle Identification Number) is stamped on the right side of the steering head pipe.  The engine serial number is located on the right side of the crankcase. 

Manuals
Before doing any work on your motorcycle, it is recommended that you obtain the Suzuki or Haynes manual for your specific model.  These are available through many sources.  The Haynes manual is available through Holeshot, Amazon.com, and most other book suppliers.  Your local Suzuki dealer should be able to order you the Suzuki manual.  The manufacturers manual is generally considered to be better but also costs significantly more money.  Also note that the Suzuki manual is actually just a bunch of three hole punched pages and requires a 3 ring binder to hold them together. Online parts manual for the 01 / 02 Bandit 1200 http://www.eisenbach.com/ae/parts.php

Microfiche
You can obtain the Suzuki microfiches from any authorized Suzuki dealer for ~$10US.  The microfiche contains pretty much every part number for every piece of the Bandit down to the very last bolt.  Keep in mind that you will also need a microfiche reader which will run you about $250US new.  One list member recommends buying from Grainger.  If you want to save your money and don't mind a bit of inconvenience, most public libraries offer microfiche readers and will print pages for a small fee.

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FLUIDS

Fuel
Use only unleaded gasoline of at least 87 octane (R+M)/2 method or 91 octane by research method.  Europe uses the RON method.  See this link for more info. Buying a higher octane gasoline than what is recommended for your engine does you no good. Unless you have higher compression than stock or a "pinging" or "knocking" problem, don't bother spending the extra money for premium fuel. See this link for more info.

Fuel Additives
Only two fuel additives have been recommended for use by list members.  Both are designed to clean carburetors and remove buildup and varnish.

STP Super Concentrate - This is a gold-colored liquid in a clear bottle.  Recommended by Dale Walker. 

Chevron Techron - This is found in a black bottle.  It is recommended that you add 1/3 to 1/2 bottle per tankful of gas.  Good results have been had by adding a splash of Marvel Mystery Oil to the mix.  This apparently helps to lubricate the moving parts inside the carburetors.  

Engine Oil
This is almost a taboo subject because of different people's views on oil.  Suzuki recommends SAE 10W/40 oil.  As long as you change the oil every 3000-4000 miles (more if your bike is subjected to rough conditions or lots of start and stop riding) you should be fine.  Be careful not to use synthetic oils, "energy conserving" oils, or additives with "friction modifiers" unless they are specifically designed for use in a motorcycle.  Bandits, like most other bikes, use a wet clutch which is submerged in oil.  Friction modifiers can cause the clutch to slip, especially if your bike has increased horsepower over stock.  This is not a big problem on the 400 or 600cc models but happens often on the 1200.  Note that Suzuki only recommends changing the engine oil filter after every *other* oil change (every 8000 mi).  Whether or not you change the filter each time or every other time seems to be personal preference.

Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40

Chevron Delo 400 Heavy Duty 15w40

Shell Rotella T Heavy Duty 15w40
These oils are non-synthetic conventional oil available in both 10W-30 and 15W-40 grades that meets SJ, SH, CH4 and Allison C4 specs.  It's marketed as a commercial grade oil, but also meets the latest automotive spec (SJ). Since it's a 15W-40 oil, it isn't limited in the amount of zinc compounds like the thinner automotive SJ oils. It actually has more zinc dithiophosphate than some motorcycle oils and a lot of the old SG oils. It has 1.69% zinc dithiophosphate, while Mobil 1 MT4 for motorcycles only has 1.08%.  Because it's formulated for heavy-duty applications, it can usually be found by the gallon at truck stops and auto parts stores.
~$5-10US/gallon.  Good reading on oil for your Bikes> (click here)

Oil Analysis

Detect Auto Labs, Inc.
Least expensive ($5-$10); sometimes found in large auto super stores; does not list previous samples; always suggest that you change the oil, regardless of condition. 

Lubricant Consultants, Inc.
Around $10/test, sample kit a few bucks more; provides a history of tests; good for looking at trends. 

Cleveland Technical Center
Provide history of tests and contact you by telephone if they discover a problem; $6 for a sample kit (3 samples), $8 for the actual test. You can buy the kits directly. Results from all three labs are reported to be reasonably close for the same sample.

Brake/Clutch Fluid
Suzuki recommends only DOT4 brake fluid for the brake and clutch reservoirs.  You should not mix or substitute other types of brake fluid (ie: Dot3 or Dot5).  Suzuki recommends changing clutch and brake fluid every 2 years but wet climates may require more frequent changes to prevent corrosion. 

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ENGINE

Filters

Oil
Fram #PH6018 (Not a very good filter quality)
Per-Form #J-509 (Available through Holeshot)
STP #MO-18 Same quality as OEM Auto Stores Stock them

The original Suzuki filter can be had at a discount through Ron Ayers Motorsports
Your local Artic Cat dealer should also carry the correct filter as their snowmobiles use the Suzuki engine.

Air Filters

individual elements RC1824 chrome ends 4pak
RU1820 plain ends 1pak
RU1824 plain ends 4pak
dual elements RU2920 plain ends 1pak
RU2922 plain ends 2pakK&N Replacement for stock: #SU-7593
K&N Oval (Stage 2) filter: #RC-1824
UniFilter replacement for stock: #NU-2472

Spark Plugs

Bandit 1200
Cold: NGK JR10B
Stock: NGK JR9B
Hot: NGK JR8B

Autolite Stock # 4143

Champion Stock # 905  RA4HC

Bandit 600 (dual electrode)
Cold: NGK JR10C
Stock: NGK JR9C
Hot: NGK JR10C

The spark plug gap should be 0.6-0.7mm (0.024-0.028in) for both models.

Dual electrode plugs do not really enhance performance but offer longer life than single electrode plugs.  The JRxC plugs can be used on the Bandit 1200 without problem.
Another option is Autolite #4143 spark plugs which fit exactly the same and are
usually cheaper than NGK's.

Valve Cover Removal
See the Valve Cover Removal document

Vavle Adjustment
This procedure is fairly well documented in the Haynes and Suzuki manuals. One tip though, you don't need to take the ignition cover off the engine to turn the engine. Just put it on the centerstand in 5th gear, and turn the engine by turning the rear wheel.
See the Valve Adjustment Q&A and Fast Larry's page for more info.

Leaking Head Gasket

Faulty O-ring/Head Gasket
Most of the time leaky head gaskets are due to a faulty or improperly installed O-ring (see service bulletin below).  This can happen - even if the service bulletin doesn't apply to you - during routine valve maintainence or straight from the factory.  Because the Bandit's spark plugs are deeply recessed into the head, the plug holes could fill up with water during bad weather. To combat this Suzuki drilled drain holes to allow water to escape from the plug recesses and these come out at the front of the engine just below the exhaust ports. The plug recesses are sealed from the inside of the valve cover with O-rings.  Occasionally you will find oil escaping from one or other of the drain holes beneath the exhaust ports. This is usually due to one of the O-rings failing and allowing oil from inside the valve cover to find its way into the plug recesses. Its very easy to nip one of these or to have it seat not-quite-right if you've had the valve cover off.

Service Bulletin
Bulletin no. GSF/GSX/GSX-R - 103 Date 11/20/98

The service bulletin is for 1996 GSF600ST through 1998 GSF600SW starting with frame #W2100634, all GSF600SX Bandits, all GSF1200SX Bandits 1997 GSF1200SAV & 1997 GSF1200SV through 1998 GSF1200SW. The service is the Valve cover union bolt and washer. This is the 4 bolts with the oil passage in them and the metal washer at the valve cover. The old part numbers are 11181-27E00 union bolt, 09168-08008 washer the new part numbers are 11181-27E00 union bolt, 09168-08029 washer OR the new set part number is 11180-27820 (one bolt and washer in each set, total of 4 needed). There is also a new torque spec for that bolt 14.5 lb-ft or 20Nm, 2.0kgf.m The diameter of the flange portion of the bolt and the sealing washer has been increased to provide better sealing, as well as the increase in torque specification. Bring your bike to your local dealer for more info and ordering of new parts.

GSX-R Cams

Many Bandit owners replace their intake and/or exhaust cams with those from the GSX-R.  This results in higher horsepower and more top end for the bike.  Cams from the 1986-1989 GSX-R 1100, also the 88 to 93 Katana 1100 fit the Bandit 1200 engine.  These cams are designed for the Bandit-type head.  1990 and later model GSX-R cams will not work as they are designed for the shim-under-bucket type valve adjustment and have one lobe per valve instead of shared lobes like the Bandit.

Cam Marks

Big Bore Kits

There are several big bore kits available for both the B-6 and B-12.  Most of the Bandit 600 kits are not recommended by list members as they are quite expensive and require complete tear-down of the engine for re-sleeving.  Most tuners agree that money would be better spent on a 750 or 1100 GSX-R engine swap.  This will give you a huge boost in horsepower without requiring major surgery to the engine.  Either of the bigger GSX-R engines should be a direct fit in the Bandit chassis.  Dale Walker is currently developing a 72mm kit which would up the 600cc Bandit to 792cc.  Pricing and specifics not yet available.

Holeshot sells a bore kit for the Bandit 1200.  There is a stock bore kit, 1157 cc and has a compression ratio of 11 to 1, also a 1216cc kit, a real torque monster.  This kit is available for ~$560-600US directly from Dale Walker's Holeshot.  Many list members have used his kits with great success.

Ignition Advancer

Click here to read the Ignition Advancer Install document

Engine Vibration 

The Bandit 1200 has a very large engine - both in physical size and in displacement.  Because of this it tends to transmit a lot of vibration.  There are many things that owners can do to help reduce how much of this vibration is felt by the rider. 

• Vibration Dampers - RTB Accessories makes a bar-end weight called "Buzzfree" that is 3 to 8 times heavier than standard weights.  This is said to reduce vibration significantly.  There is an accessory called the "Bar Snake" which is also said to reduce vibration greatly.  A cheaper (though, less effective) solution is filling your handlebars with an expanding foam like "Great Stuff".  This is available at most hardware stores for a few dollars.

• Synch the carbs - If your carburetors are out of sync the engine will vibrate more and can have a "lope" at idle.  Synching the carbs will also improve drivability and fuel mileage. 

• Install aluminum handlebars - Aluminum bars tend to transmit much less vibration to the hands than the original steel ones in addition to being lighter.

• Tighten motor mounts - Make sure the bolts on your motor mounts are snug.  Some list members have reported loose mounts from the factory.  Also take the time to ensure that the rubber in your mounts is not too hard.  This can lead to excess vibration.

• Throttle lock - Installing a throttle lock makes it possible for you to keep a looser grip on the bars and can make long trips more tolerable.

• Gel gloves/grips - Olympia makes a pair of standard weight leather gloves with gel in the palms.  One list member reports good results with these.  Several companies make foam grips (Grab-On) or grips with some sort of gel in them.  No reports available.

• Keep RPM's higher - Inline four cylinder engines are notorious for their low RPM shake.  Keeping the revolutions up helps counteract this.

• Change your seating position - Try to put less weight on your wrists.  This may involve simply correcting your posture or may require aftermarket seat/bars.

Case Covers
These parts seem to always get cracked or ground through is you should happen to wreck your bike.  If you don't have the recommended case guards (see below), and end up needing to replace your case covers, check the junkyard first.  Remember that the Bandit shares many components with the GSXR - including engine case covers.  The Bandit 600 shares parts with the early GSXR 750's, and all Katana 600's and 750's.  Take your broken parts along with you just to make sure the replacement pieces are an exact match.  If you cannot find a match at your local junkyard, a few companies offer aftermarket pieces, many of which are more robust than the stockers.  Keep in mind that you will be paying a premium price, however.

Case Guards
Case guards are designed to protect your engine in case of a wreck.  They cover the lower portion of the case and sacrifice themselves in the event of an accident.  Many different case guards are offered for the Bandit.  See links below for more information.
Suzuki Case Guards - Part#99950-70068
Givi Case Guards
RennTech Case Guards - Available from MPS and Bandit Mania

Suzuki Case Guards
Suzuki manufactures case guards specifically for use with the Bandit.  They are available directly through any authorized Suzuki dealer.
Part# 99950-70068

Givi Case Guards
Givi also makes a set of case guards for the Bandit.  These are shaped slightly differently from the Suzuki guards and attach to different points of the frame.

Sprocket Cover Leaks
First, check to make sure this isn't just chain lube.  Sometimes chain lube flings onto the inside of the sprocket cover, then drips down once the engine heats up.  If it definitely *is* a leak, you'll have to replace some seals.  There is a seal behind the clutch cover and a 1/4" push rod.  If the seal is leaking, the rod may be worn out too. The seals are cheap through Bonzai or Ron Ayers Motorsports.  You may want to replace the shift shaft and output shaft seal at the same time.  The seals are easy to remove, using a self-tapping sheetrock screw. Just get the screw started (don't let it go past the seal, one on either side of the seal) and pull it gently out with pliers. Use a piece of wood, or better yet a PVC water pipe coupling to tap the new seals in. You may want to put some ATV sealant on the outside of the seal.  Total time for this project should be 1 to 2 hours, depending on how familiar you are with your bike.

Crankcase Vent Line
Crankcase vent line is made from 1/2" tubing.

Airbox/Air Filter

The Bandit 1200 and 600 share the same airbox.  Because of this, the 1200 model doesn't always get as much air as it would like, especially if fitted with an aftermarket exhaust canister.  Freeing up the engine's intake system helps but aggravates lean-from-the-factory carb jetting.  There are several fixes for this problem including:

Removing the "Snorkel"
The Bandit airbox is fitted with a "snorkel" (2"x3" rubber tube) from the factory.  This is basically for noise control.  Most owners recommend the removal of this piece.  This allows the engine to breathe more freely and better utilizes the air cleaner (instead of concentrating airflow on one small portion of it), though it also increases the sound level of air going into the engine.  If you don't mind a little bit of additional noise, this is a highly recommended (and free!) modification which generally does not require rejetting. 

K&N Air Filter
Many Bandit owners choose to put a K&N filter on their bikes.  There are trade-offs for everything and this is no exception.  While the K&N filter is reusable and offers increased airflow for about the same price as a stock replacement, it also allows more dust particles to enter the engine.  The Motor Industry Research Association found that K&N filters stop 97% of particles on an SAE fine dust test (0-20 micron particles).  By comparison, the average paper filter stops 98-99% of particles on the same test.  This means that the K&N passes 2 to 3 times as many particles as a standard paper filter.  It is up to each individual owner to determine which filter is best for them, K&N or stock.  While the K&N allows more dirt particles to pass through the filter to the engine, the decreased long-term cost and increased power often outweigh this drawback.
K&N Replacement for stock: #SU-7593
K&N Oval (Stage 2) filter: #RC-1824

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CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION

Clutch Springs
The Bandit 1200 has a fairly weak clutch for such a brute of an engine.  Because of this, the clutch can begin to slip after using synthetic oil or increasing stock horsepower/torque.  To help counteract these effects, many owners recommend installing one Barnett clutch spring in replacement of one of the stockers.  This will give you a stronger clutch at the expense of a bit of increased lever pull.  Replacing *all* stock clutch springs with Barnett springs is not recommended since the clutch will be much more difficult to pull.  Since the B-12 uses symmetrical diaphragm-style springs, there's no problem with replacing only one spring.  For more information read the Barnett Clutch Install document.  

Barnett Diaphragm part number MT-94

The Bandit 600 actually comes with a very strong stock clutch.  Because of the stronger clutch and lower horsepower/torque (in comparison to the 1200), it rarely needs any modification.

Replacement Parts
The clutch assembly from 1989-1992 GSX-R 1100's is reported to fit the Bandit 1200, as will the assembly from the 88 Katana 1100.  The 1986-1988 GSX-R 1100 clutch will not work as they use a different number of teeth on the back basket. The clutch spindle nut is a 30mm and the countersproket spindle nut is 32mm. Make sure you've got these size sockets before beginning any work.

This is an easy drop-in mod, and uses all OEM parts; cost for
everything is just over $400 from Ron Ayers.
You need:
1x 92 GSXR 1100 clutch outer basket
(part # 21200-40821),
1x 92 Katana 1100 inner hub
(part# 21410-06B03),
1x 92 Katana outer pressure disc
(part# 21462-06B00),
1x set, GSXR steel and fiber clutch plates
(part# 21400-40C01),
1x extra fiber plate
(part# 21442-48B00),
4x springs
(part# 09440-20018),
4x bolts
(part# 09116-06171),
4x spacer/bushing
(part #09180-06174),

3x of a 1" ID flatwasher from hardware store... you need these to
correct the basket-to-nut spacing,
1x of a 7/16" ball bearing to correct pushrod length.
Remove the drive gear from the back of the OEM basket and re-install
it on the new part.
If you'd rather stay with the diaphragm-style springs (Anders liked the
action better for his application) there is also a GSXR pressure plate
you can run instead of the Kat outer plate... sorry, don't have part
number(s) for that item.

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FUEL SYSTEM/CARBURETORS

Fuel Line
Fuel Line is made of 5/16" tubing.  When replacing, make sure to *ONLY* use fuel line as other tubing may rot or disintegrate from the gasoline.

Carburetor Specifications
US, European, Canadian, and Australian 1200cc models:
California models in parenthesis

 Carb type: Mikuni BST36SS
Main Jet: 102.5
 Jet Needle: 5D76-4th (5D80 - CA)
 Needle Jet: O-8 (0-8M - CA)
 Throttle Valve: #120
Pilot Jet: #37.5
 Pilot Screw: PRESET (1-3/4 turns)
 Ignition timing: 7 deg BTDC at 1500rpm

(Carb #4 has a Throttle Position Sensor that is connected to Ignition
Module.)

Other bikes that use BST36SS carbs:
1988-1997 GSX750F Katana
GSX-R1100 (unknown years)
1992 GSX1100G (possibly other years as well)

The 2-inch Mod
This is a modification to the stock airbox where you basically cut a 2" hole to allow more air to flow to the engine.  This generally requires re-jetting or shimming of the carburetors. You can purchase shims from Radio Shack, part # 64-3022A .You should also read Moonray's Wrenching for Idiots if you're not sure about modifying the stock airbox.  This is recommended for the 1200 model only.  Doing the 2-inch mod to the 400 or 600 model has no effect.  The stock airbox (without the snorkel) can flow more air than the engine would ever possibly use.  Check this link for information about the flow rate of the stock airbox versus the 2" hole modification.

Holeshot Stage 1 or Stage 2 kit
These are kits designed specifically for the Bandit 1200 and tested by Dale (and many list members) to work, and work well.  Stage 1 replaces the stock air filter with a K&N unit while Stage 2 replaces the stock airbox/filter with twin K&N oval filters.  Both kits include the required needles and jets and, of course, Dale's wisdom and experience.   Read Pete Solomon's Stage 2/Vortex document if you're thinking about the Stage 2 kit.
Stage 1 kit (for stock air box): Part #B12-JK1
Stage 1 kit (for modified 2" airbox): Part #B12-JK1-M
Stage 2 kit: Part #B12-JK2

Radio Shack Shim Part # 64-3022A

Rejetting the Bandit 600
The 600 is even easier than the 1200 to shim the needles. The Keihin carbs on the B-6 do not have the dreaded o-rings like the B-12's Mikunis, so not to worry.  This procedure will probably take less than an hour total.  Just pull the tank and remove the throttle cover of each carb, shim each of the needles 0.05", and reassemble.  This will smooth out the midrange and make the bike run better with an aftermarket pipe.

Carburetor settings
Obviously, these settings won't work perfectly for everyone.  However; most Bandits work very well with these settings.  Note that you may have to adjust for temperature and/or altitude and how you ride.  These settings should give gas mileage similar to stock but with increased rideability and horsepower.  Note that even though the "Stage 2" uses much larger mains than the "Stage 1", mileage will only be affected at or near full throttle.  The settings listed below are for average temperature (40-80 degrees Fahrenheit) and sea level to +~1000ft.  These figures are for US models only.  Europe gasoline is different and thus, needs slightly different carburetor settings.

Bandit 1200   96 - 2000

Bandit 600

Pilot/Main Part Numbers
Mikuni Pilots: BS30/96-XX where XX is the size you need (ex: BS30/96-35)
VERY IMPORTANT: Some pilots have crossdrilled holes in them. Pilots with no crossdrilling or 6 holes are okay. Do NOT use pilots with 8 crossdrilled holes in them!
Mikuni Mains: 100/604 (+size, from 60-200 in increments of 2.5)
Washers for shimming needles can be found at Radio Shack or hobby stores.  Most owners suggest getting your washers from a hobby store as they are more likely to be of uniform size and less likely to be "pressed" washers which tend to be bent or curved.  Use a micrometer to measure the washers thickness to ensure uniform fit.

Mains and pilots are available from many sources including Carburetor Parts Warehouse, Ron Ayers Motorsports, Dennis Kirk, and most local bike shops.  Obviously, Holeshot needles can only be obtained through Holeshot and normally, only as part of a kit.

Carburetor Tuning
Here's a helpful article on setting CV (constant velocity) carbs like the Bandit's

B-12 Carb Screw Sizes
It is highly recommended that you change out the Phillips screws fitted by Suzuki with Allen head screws.  This can be done when you pull the carbs for jetting work and will make future modifications much easier.  These screws can generally be found locally but can also be ordered Metric Screw and Tool.

5mm x .8mm x 12mm - Float Bowl
5mm x .8mm x 16mm - Diaphragm Caps
4mm x .7mm x 24mm - Hose Clamps

Fuel Valve
The Bandit is fitted with an automatic, diaphragm-type fuel valve with three positions: ON, PRI, and RES.  ON is the normal position which allows fuel to flow to the carburetor if the engine is being started or running.  This is the setting that the valve should be left on most of the time.  The RES or Reserve position in intended for use if the fuel level in the tank gets low enough that the engine will no longer run in the ON position.  As with the ON position, no fuel will flow unless the engine is starting or running.  The PRI (Priming) setting should only be used if the motorcycle has been drained of fuel or if it has sat for sufficient time to evaporate the gasoline from the float bowls.  The PRI setting allows fuel to flow from the tank to the carburetors whether or not the engine is running.  You should never leave the fuel valve in the PRI position.  It may allow gasoline to run into the carburetors (past the float bowls) and into the engine which could result in engine damage or a fire.

Pingel Fuel Valve

For those of you that need more fuel for aftermarket carbs, such as Mikuni Flat Slides, This mod is for you. I recently installed this setup on my 01 B12 and it's easy and works great. The only mod you have to make, is take a rat tail file and clean up the center of the hole for the petcock screen to inter the tank, it takes about 1 minute to open up a bit to clear it. This will not stop you from re-installing the OEM petcock. Listed below are the 2 pingel parts you will need. This will give you more top end fuel flow and possibley 2 to 3 mph more trap speed. You will also need about 3' of 5/16 fuel line, this will give you a little extra. The valve has on/off position only, no reserve setting.

Pingel 3211-D-AH Valve 3/8 NPT Dual Hex V3

Pingel A1602C Adapter Plate 3/8 1.338/34mm V3

Carb Synchronizing (Balancing)
This is pretty straightforward; you basically just follow the manual and the instructions that come with your synch tool. A big floor fan blowing on the oil cooler helps keep the engine temp down while you're working.

Synchronizing Tools/Gauges
Mercury tools are inexpensive and never need adjustment, but mercury is poisonous and environmentally hazardous. If you're not careful the mercury can get sucked into the engine. It won't hurt the engine, and the instructions that come with the tool should explain how to purge it.  Dial gauges don't contain mercury, but good ones are expensive.  See the Tools section for more info.

Air/Fuel Ratios
Carburetors can only be tuned for maximum power or mileage at a given RPM.  14.5-14.7 air fuel is maximum fuel mileage. 13.2 air fuel (richer than 14.7) is maximum steady state rpm power. 12.7-12.9 is maximum acceleration power. If you set the carbs for maximum power in the mid range and top end it is not going to get fuel mileage. Lowering the needle and adjusting the idle circuit will help.  If you set the idle circuit lean, and lower the needles to 14.7 air fuel ratio then adjust your top end to 13.2, your bike while riding in the mid range/lower RPM's will get mileage. on full acceleration at high rpm you bike will have power. But if you set the carbs this way you will not have maximum mid range power. Also, one full clip movement may be more than what is needed to go from lean to perfect 14.7 air fuel ratio.

Temperature/Elevation Effect on Air/Fuel Ratio
Changes in ambient temperature and altitude affect richness of your air/fuel ratio.  This is because air gets more dense as it gets colder.  Air is also denser the closer you get to sea level.  Therefore; more fuel is needed to maintain proper air/fuel ratio in cold weather or near sea level than is needed in hot weather or at high altitude.  If you set your carburetors for perfect air/fuel ratio in San Francisco on a 50 degree day, your bike will be chokingly rich in Denver on a 90 degree day.  Obviously, you will be best served by jetting your engine to run best at the average temperature and elevation you will normally ride.  Mikuni suggests an increase of one full jet size for every 25 degree drop in temperature.

Carb Heaters
Suzuki offers a carb heater kit which is often fitted as stock in the UK.  This kit helps the bike to start in cold weather and prevents icing when riding in cold, wet weather.  The heater plugs screw vertically up into the the bottom of the float bowls.  It is powered directly from the battery and is generally connected through a switch so that it can be turned on a few minutes before start-up.  Keep in mind that even though it helps with cold weather starting, this kit only warms the carbs.  It does nothing to prevent thickening of the crankcase oil or freezing of the battery in extremely cold weather.

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LUBRICATION SYSTEM

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CHASSIS

Canada/Europe Motor Mounts
Canadian and European spec bikes have additional motor mounts fitted from the engine to the bottom of the frame.  These are available through Canadian Suzuki dealers (you *may* be able to get these in the US as well).  While not absolutely necessary, they are recommended if your bike produces more than 110 horsepower.  Some list members say that these OEM mounts decrease vibration.
Brackets #41931-27E50 (2)
Bolts #01550-10753 (2)
Nuts #09159-10020 (2)
Bushings #41932-27E50 (2)
Bolts #07120-08253 (4)

Holeshot Motor Mounts
Holeshot also sells a set of motor mounts that are very similar to the above OEM items and are mounted in the same place.  The Holeshot models are made of aluminum while the Suzuki models are made of rubber mounted steel.  Also, the Holeshot mounts are NOT rubber mounted.

Covering Allen Bolts
You can use the same plastic plugs that cover the passenger grab handle Allen bolts to cover other bolts on the Bandit.  For a cleaner look, try covering the Allen bolts that go through both front frame down tubes to the engine brackets.  The part numbers for the covers are as follows:
#09250-06004

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SUSPENSION

The Bandit has a reputation for having a very soft suspension.  Unless you're a light rider, it may feel vague or sloppy in corners or when pushing the bike hard.  Both the front and rear can be fixed though.  However; this does require a bit of time and wrenching.  There is generally not enough adjustment in the stock components to satisfy the demanding rider.  If you *do* decide to upgrade your suspension, make sure to get components designed for your weight (and any additional weight you might have added like a full-time passenger or luggage).  Most springs are available in different stiffness levels and should be ordered to tailor to your particular bike.

Front Suspension

The front end of most Bandit models suffers from springs that are too soft and poorly damped shocks.  This can cause "pogo-ing" of the front end and severe dive under braking.  Many list members recommend the Race Tech Gold Valve kit to help alleviate these problems.  This can also be cured (to a lesser degree, but much more cheaply) by using Progressive springs, Race Tech springs (without the Gold Valves), and/or thicker viscosity fork oil - though the latter is not the recommended cure. Suzuki ships the Bandit from the factory with #10 fork oil.

Read about the Race Tech Gold Vaves here.
Read about Progressive Fork Spring installation here.

Fork Brace Bolts
The bolts that hold in the front fork brace and front fender are notorious for vibrating loose.  We *highly* recommend you check these bolts for tightness at regular intervals and suggest using blue Locktite to prevent them from loosening.

Replacement Forks

Suzuki RF-900 Forks
The Bandit is believed to share front forks with the Suzuki RF-900.  It also shares the fender and fender brace as well.  People looking for replacement pieces for their front forks should check the salvage yards for an RF-900 donor bike.  If you need to do a total fork replacement, you would be better served by using GSX-R forks instead as they are higher quality, upside-down, and fully adjustable.

Suzuki GSX-R Forks
After bending or breaking the forks on the stock Bandit, some people have chosen to replace them with an upside-down GSX-R unit.  This is not a simple installation and requires a fair amount of work, but it can be done.  The main advantages to using the Gixxer fork are the additional adjustability and amount of aftermarket parts available for this suspension.  Hopefully we'll have directions on how to do this modification in the future.

Rear Suspension

The Bandit's rear suspension is best fixed by replacing the stock shock with an aftermarket unit or fully adjustable GSX-R 750/1100 shock.  Aftermarket shocks are a somewhat easier installation and are generally covered by warrantee, however; the GSX-R install is much less expensive.

Koni
Koni offers a replacement rear shock for the B-6.  One list member reports a much better and more planted ride with the Koni than with the stocker.  It uses a progressively wound rear spring and has both compression and rebound damping adjustments.  Interested parties should be aware that the supplied spring tension adjuster tool that comes with the shock is very poorly made and has been known to break on the first use.  This unit retails for ~$320US but can be found for under $250 through RD Enterprises.
Koni part# 2615-1018

Progressive 420
This replacement shock is available through Holeshot.  It has been used my a few list members and comes highly recommended.  As with most other aftermarket shocks, this one is fully rebuildable and offers preload and rebound damping adjustment.  Available for both the Bandit 600 and 1200.

GSX-R Replacement
Many Bandit owners swap their stock rear shock for a Suzuki GSX-R unit.  This has many advantages over the stock unit including being rebuildable and offering much more adjustability.  The biggest advantage would most likely be cost.  A used GSX-R shock can be had for $100-200 while the aftermarket Fox, Koni, Progressive, etc. can cost several times that amount.  1991-94 GSX-R750 shocks are recommended as they feature a remote reservoir while the earlier model shocks do not.  1989-1998 GSX-R1100 shocks *should* fit as well (No one has yet tried the 89 or 90 models).  Note that the GSX-R shock is much more stiff than the stock Bandit shock, especially if you use the shock from an 1100.  Most members recommend the 750 shock for the B-6 and B-12.  The 1100 shock is recommended for larger B-12 riders and those who often haul luggage/pillion.  Note that both shocks raise rear ride height 1-1.5".  This tends to quicken the steering of the bike and may require headlight adjustment.
The GSX-R shock transplant document is currently unavailable.

Lowering Struts
Sometimes drag racers and shorter riders find it valuable to lower the Bandit's rear suspension.  Fast Larry offers lowering struts for the Bandit on his web page.

Extended Swingarms
Several companies make extended swingarms and swingarm extensions for the Bandit. Extending the rear swingarm is generally good for about 0.2 seconds in the 1/4 mile.

Holeshot Swing Arm Extensions
~$580US directly from Holeshot

Spaceport Cycles Swingarm Extensions
~$300 from Spaceport Cycles

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WHEELS

Replacement wheels are generally available through the local junk yard (breakers).  The Bandit 1200 rear rim is the same as the 1994-95 GSX-R750 rear rim.  The part numbers for both wheels match exactly with the first 10 digits being identical and the last three designating paint color.  We do not have any information yet on replacements for the front rim or Bandit 600 rims but some have suggested checking the part numbers on the RF600 and RF900 bikes for a possible match.

CHAIN & SPROCKETS

General Info
The Bandit 1200 comes with 15 tooth front, 45 tooth rear sprockets and a 110 link chain.  The 1200 ABS model is equipped with a 114 link chain and the Bandit 600 uses a 112 link chain. Most list members recommend a 10,000-10,500lb chain for the Bandit 1200.

Cleaning
You should use either kerosene or WD-40 to clean your chain.  Both are safe to use on the O-Rings and will remove grit and grime quite well.  A stiff bristle brush or old toothbrush can help work wonders on a dirty chain.  Do not use commercial cleaning products or high pressure water car washes on your chain.  These products contain chemicals that can break down the O-rings in the chain and cause premature wear.

Lubrication
There are basically three options here: Scottoiler, chain wax, and "other".  Chain wax is a love it or hate it product which tends to fling off less than most oils but which also is more "sticky" on the chain.  Most list members recommend Bel Ray, Torco, or other synthetic lubricant and prefer not to use chain wax.  In a pinch you can even use motor oil or gear oil.  The main thing is to just keep the chain clean and lubricated.  If you want to skip the hassle and headache of constantly lubricating your chain, consider a Scottoiler.  These devices install on your bike and automatically lubricate the chain.  They are fairly pricey but help prevent chain wear by keeping the chain constantly lubricated.  Also, they are worth the cost to those who take a lot of long rides or who just hate worrying about chain lubrication.  Click here for an article on mounting the Scottoiler on a Bandit.
Here's another article.  This one's a little more detailed with better pictures.

Master Link vs. Riveted
Most list members feel that master link chains are adequate but some riders swear by rivet-only chains.  The choice is up to you.  If you're worried about your master link failing, use a riveted chain.  Just keep in mind that many bikes with 200+HP use master link chains with no problems.  If you so use a master link chain, most list members recommend putting a dab of silicone or JB Weld epoxy on the link to prevent it from coming off.  If you simply must use a riveted chain, temporarily put on a master link and ride to your nearest dealer to have the chain riveted.  This is generally much cheaper than purchasing the proper tools unless you go through a lot of chains.

Chain Replacement
When your chain begins to bind or kink, it's time to replace it.  You may also notice tight spots when rotating the back tire (on the center stand in neutral).  There is also a method to check the chain outlined in the users manual.  There are many good brands of replacement chains on the market.  Most list members recommend the DID X-Ring chain.  It is strong and long-lasting and comes in a shade of gold that matches the stock brakes and stickers.  Make sure to purchase the correct length chain when replacing, especially if you have changed sprocket sizes.

Sprocket Replacement
You can effectively change your overall gearing by changing to sprockets with fewer/more teeth.  Raising or lowering the front sprocket by one tooth is about the same as changing the rear sprocket by three teeth.  It is recommended that you leave the front sprocket at 15 teeth as 14 teeth tends to be too low and is hard on the chain, and a 16 tooth sprocket will not fit without some grinding work (though it can be done).  The front sprocket of the B-12 is held on by a 32mm nut and the rear uses a 24mm nut.  You'll need these sockets to replace your sprockets so be prepared with the proper tools before starting.  A change of one tooth on the rear sprocket is equal to about a 100RPM change.  Also, keep in mind that replacing your sprockets may require a longer or shorter chain than the stock length.
Lowering Gearing: Most Bandit owners who change the gearing from stock do so to gear the bike lower.  You can lower the gearing of your bike by either increasing the number of teeth on the rear sprocket or decreasing the number of teeth on the front sprocket.  The advantages of lower gearing are more torque and quicker acceleration at the expense of fuel mileage and top speed.  A stock or lightly modified Bandit 1200 will not pull clear to redline in 5th gear anyway so top speed should not be a concern to most riders.  15F/47R seems to be a good compromise for most owners.  This increases acceleration and torque while not raising cruising RPM by too large a margin.  Gearing lower is most useful if you have raised the HP/Torque curve of your bike (for example: installing GSX-R cams) or if you're in need of more power immediately off the line, such as for drag racing.
Raising Gearing: If you decrease the number of teeth on the rear sprocket or increase the teeth on the front, the bike will be geared higher and run at a lower rpm than stock at a given speed.  The advantages of higher gearing are generally more fuel mileage and top speed at the expense of acceleration and perceived power.  It is not advised to gear the Bandit 1200 any higher than stock.  The B-12 is geared fairly high from the factory and only turns ~4000RPM@70mph with a top speed of around 145mph.  Most stock and mildly modified bikes can't even pull to redline in 5th gear because of the high gearing.  Gearing the Bandit higher is recommended only for those who take long trips and value fuel mileage over power and general drivability.

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TIRES

Tire sizes are indicated by number/letter combinations such as 140/90-H16, meaning 140 mm wide, 90% as high as it is wide, and fits a 16" rim. The letter is the rating according to highest continuous speed (see "Speed Ratings" below).

Tires also have a pressure rating molded into the sidewall. This is the MAXIMUM tire pressure, not the recommended pressure. The recommended pressure will be given in the owner's manual and will also be on a decal on the swing arm. The recommended pressure is a guideline based on an average load and riding style. Heavier loads, spirited riding, or different tires may require a slightly higher than recommended pressure. Using less than the recommended pressure is not advised since this could lead to excessive heat buildup - due to increased flexing - and possible tire failure.

Age
You can tell the age of your tires by checking the date code on the sidewall.  The date code will be a 6-digit combo (three letters followed by three numbers).  The date can be read as follows (disregard the letters): 
VKD347 = 34th week of 1997
DEB408 = 40th week of 1998 

Balance
For tires to be properly balanced, the "tire balance mark" should line up with the valve stem.  The "tire balance mark" is usually signified by a colored spot or circle on the sidewall of the tire.  This shows the lightest part of the tire.  Aligning it with the valve stem helps offset some of the valve stem's weight.  This helps to reduce the number of counter-weights required to balance the wheel.  A good balancing job should require no more than 50gm of weights and the weights should be placed near the valve stem.  Much more than this indicates that the tire is lopsided or was mounted poorly. 

Speed Rating
Sustained speed rating is designated by a letter code:
N 93 mph (150 km/h) 
S 112 mph (180 km/h) 
H 130 mph (210 km/h) 
V 149 mph (240 km/h) 
Z 149+ mph (240+ km/h) 

Sizes
Stock tires are as follows:
Bandit 1200 - F:120/70ZR17    R:180/55ZR17    Bridgestone BT-54
Bandit 600 - F: 110/70H-17    R: 150/70H-17    Bridgestone Excedra (bias-ply)
(Many brands do not come sized for the B-6 rear.  Owners report that 160/60-17's work fine)

For more information about tires to fit the Bandit 1200 see this article.
For more information about tires to fit the Bandit 600 see this article.

Brands/Models
Many tires have been tried on the Bandit and are mostly a matter of personal preference.  Here is a short list of the most popular tires for the Bandit.  These tires are suggested by list members for use on the B-12 but will probably work just as well on the B-6.  Because there is always a compromise between tread life and traction, I've tried to separate the tires into two categories as best I can.  Your individual riding style, weight, modifications, etc. will all affect performance so this is meant merely as a guideline.

Longer Life
Bridgestone BT-54
Dunlop D205
Metzeler ME-Z1/ME-Z2
Michelin Madacam 90X

Better Traction
Bridgestone BT-56
Bridgestone BT-56SS
Bridgestone BT-57
Dunlop D207
Metzeler ME-Z4
Pirelli MT07/08

To order free motorcycle tire catalogs the numbers are:

Pirelli/Michelin, 800-722-3336
Dunlop, 800-334-4646
Metzeler, 206-348-4000

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ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

General Info
The stock Bandit 1200 alternator has a power output of ~405watts at 5000RPM.  This would put a theoretical limit of 405W / 12volts = 33.75Amps.  However; this is *only* if you can keep the bike above 5000RPM.  If you let the bike idle for a long period of time with too much electrical drain, your battery would eventually go dead.  Also, the main fuse for the bike is only 30amps.  This effectively puts a cap of 30amps on the entire system.  Some list members have been able to run the bike's normal electrics (headlight, taillight, turn indicators, gauges, etc.) in addition to heated grips, an electric vest, and driving lights without a problem.  Even so, you should always check the amount of strain being put on your electrical system before adding any high-drain electric accessories.

Ignition Retardation Wire
The Bandit 1200 comes with an ignition retarder that is designed to reduce engine/exhaust noise in 2nd and 3rd gear to pass noise emission testing.  Some Bandit owners recommend disconnecting this wire to prevent the ignition from retarding in those gears (and losing power).  The connector is a two way red/black and green/blue wire near the front of the left side cover panel.  Note: This wire is only found on European Bandit models.

Black Box Swap
It's reported that putting the "Black Box" ignition module from a Bandit 600 or Katana 600 into a Bandit 1200 will raise the rev limit and remap the ignition points.  This would likely only be advantageous on Bandit 12's who've been reworked for more top-end instead of the low-end grunt that they're tailored for stock.

Instrument Light Electrical Cluster
The instrument lights are fed by a gray wire that comes from a large blue connector located directly behind the windscreen. This single gray wire then travels inside a sheath with a bunch of other wires down to the area directly below the instruments. It is here that things get interesting. Four gray wires (one each from tach, speedo, gas gauge, and ignition switch are crimped together with the single gray wire and the crimp is stuffed up inside the sheath the gray wire came down in. This has been known to cause problems on the Bandit.  If your instrument lights are not working test the circuit.  Unsnap the large blue connector and also unsnap a small connector located directly under the instruments. (this connector goes to the ignition switch) With a continuity checker check continuity from the gray wire in the blue connector to the gray wire in the small connector.  If you do not have continuity then this is the culprit.  You'll have to fix the electrical connections in this bundle to get your instument lights to work again.

Gauges

Erratic/Dead Gauges
Some Bandit owners have reported some problems with their stock gauges.  This is often seen as erratic reporting or a completely dead gauge.  This is often caused by one of two problems.  The gauges are exposed to the elements and can get water or water vapor inside the unit.  This can sometimes cause a gauge to report incorrectly or not at all.  See "Instrument Light Electrical Cluster" above for another possible cause.  A broken or bad connection can cause one or more instruments to stop functioning correctly.  Also, the connections where the fuel gauge wiring meets the tank are susceptible to corrosion or breakage.  Check the wire connections on the bottom of the tank and solder/crimp as necessary.

Intellitronix Oil Temp
The Intellitronix digital temp gauge and sender (electric) has been successfully fitted to the Bandit.  If you drill and tap the Allen head oil passage plug on the bottom right (sitting on bike) front of the engine, you can thread the sender in there.  Alternately, you can pull use a fitting on the left side of the engine near the left oil cooler line coming from the cooler into the block.  With this method nothing protrudes or shows.  The wire can be routed next to the starter motor into the harness.

Intellitronix Air/Fuel Mixture Gauge
This is a gauge that works in conjuntion with an O2 sensor to analyze your exhaust gasses.  It can then indicate how rich or lean your engine is running.  This has been an invaluable tool for many Bandit-Talk members including those with turbos. The following parts are available from Summit Racing.
Intellitronix digital air/fuel gauge (bar type): Part #TH7009 ~$30US
Intellitronix oxygen gas O2 sensor (single wire): Part #TH8941 ~$35US
(you'll also need an 18mm nut to secure the sensor)
Rectangular air/fuel gauge availalbe HERE

See pictures and get more info about both Intellitronix gauges HERE

Voltmeter

Datel model #DMS-20LCD-0-DCM
Self powered 3-1/2 digit digital voltmeter that's available from most electronics parts suppliers. It has a liquid crystal display so the power consumption is in the milliamps.  Can be mounted on the fairing lip right next to the vent in the middle. There is an LED version of the same meter.  The physical size is about 1-1/4" x 7/8" so you can mount it just about anywhere.

Headlight Modulators
Contact Sound Off Safety Inc. about their SOS Pulsar headlight modulator

Check out this link for info on building your own headlight modulator.  Note that you'll need a decent understanding of electrical concepts and wiring diagrams to do this.

Kriss Industries offers the Starburst headlight modulator

Headlight Switches

Several Bandit owners have looked into ways to turn off the headlight when the ignition key is set to ON.  Note that it is illegal in most US states to operate a motorcycle without the headlight on.  The main reason for wanting to switch off the headlight would be for additional voltage on startup.  This can be accomplished in a few different ways:

Lockhart Phillips
Both work by plugging in between the headlight bulb and the wiring harness connector and operate by cycling the ground wire on or off.
#400-2175 is a handlebar mount
#400-13296 is a universal mount

European Headlight Controls
The European Bandit comes with a passing switch (yellow trigger which flashes the high-beams) on the left control-set.  The right control-set has a switch that lets you turn the headlight on and off.  The main wiring harness for both bikes in the same and the parts install very simply.
Left control: Suzuki part# 3740026E11000
Right control: Suzuki part# 3720033E11000
Both of these part numbers are for non-ABS equipped models.  Note that you must replace the right control in order to use the left controls pass switch feature.

Driving Lights

Motolight, Inc.
From a list member: "Two small teardrop halogen fixtures, mount on lower fork legs, 35w apiece; $245.00 plus shipping, 1 year warranty on everything including the bulbs. ...incredible amount of light...great... in conjunction with either your low beam or high beam...terrific...in low visibility situations...first rate quality...complete with all wiring needed and an on/off switch...Installation is very easy."

PIAA
PIAA makes several different models of driving lights, several of which can be mounted to a motorcycle. 

Rear Lighting

The Hyperlite auxiliary brake light flasher system is available from M & G Accessories, Inc.
"Developed for BMWs but easily adapted to other bikes... consists of 16 small, very bright red LED's mounted in two 1"x1"x 3/4" units (approx), 8 LED's per unit. They are mounted on any flat rear surface that allows them to be aimed straight behind you. When you apply your brakes, the Hyperlites flash very rapidly."

Kriss Industries offers the FireFly II brake light flasher

Back to Table of Contents 

BRAKE SYSTEM

Brake Bleeding
After replacing brake parts or fluid, bleed the system until clean fluid with no air comes out. Drape old towels all over to catch spilled fluid. A MityVac vacuum brake bleeder is nicer, available at auto supply stores or from

JC Whitney #12FE6752W, $26.99 (312-431-6102)
Eastwood Company (800-345-1178)
Sears auto restoration catalog #8027, $31.95 (800-557-3277)

Fluid Changes
Brake (and clutch) fluid should be changed periodically, since it is very hygroscopic and inevitably absorbs water, which contributes to corrosion in the system. Suzuki recommends changing clutch and brake fluid every 2 years but wet climates may require more frequent changes to prevent corrosion. DOT 4 fluid is required. It has higher wet and dry boiling points than DOT 3, which is also glycol based. DOT 5 is silicone based and is not compatible with the Bandit's brake/clutch systems.

Pad Recommendations
EBC greens are given favorable reports. EBC blacks are less well liked, being rated inferior to OEM. Dale Walker recommends and sells Ferodo rotors and pads.  No reports on other brands.

Brake Lines
Several companies offer braided lines to replace the stock units.  Braided lines offer superior brake feel due to the fact that they cannot swell or expand.  They also offer improved looks and durability.  Braided lines are available through Dale Walker's Holeshot precut to the correct length for the Bandit.

6 Piston Front Calipers
Some list members have swapped 6 piston brake calipers for the 4 piston stock models.  This is reported to offer better stopping power and brake feel.  Nissin, Tokico, and Harrison all reportedly make 6 pot brake calipers that will bolt on to the Bandit without problem.  Beware that changing out the calipers will require a *thorough* brake bleeding job.  Failure to get all of the air bubbles out will cause the brake lever to travel too far and the brakes will feel mushy (and will likely be dangerous to use).  See the "Brake Bleeding" section for more info. Brakes from the following bikes are reported to fit the Bandit 1200 (may require shimming with washers):
1996 GSX-R1100, 2000 Bandit 1200.

Replacement Brake Rotors
OEM replacement rotors for the Bandit tend to run several hundred dollars.  Most list members recommend getting an aftermarket replacement or a replacement from a salvage yard.  Suzuki RF900's use the same rotor as the Bandit 1200 does.  Not only are aftermarket rotors much cheaper, they are generally just as good - if not better - than the stock units.  Companies like EBC and Ferodo manufacture aftermarket brake rotors, while Ron Ayers Motorsports can generally get the OEM units for 5-50% less than your local dealer will probably charge.

Brake Dive
The Bandit has a reputation for having bad front end dive under heavy braking.  This is generally caused by the too-soft front fork springs.  See the Suspension section for more info on curing this problem.

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EXHAUST SYSTEM

Gold Pipes
The Bandit has exhaust pipes made of stainless steel, not chromed steel like many other bikes.  Stainless steel has a tendency to turn gold with heat.  This is perfectly normal and nothing to be alarmed about.  In fact, most owners like the gold color as it matches the gold logo on the fairing and the gold on the brakes.  While it can be polished away, this is a temporary fix as the gold will slowly return once the pipes get hot again.  Many people have reported black stains on their headers behind the front tire.  This can be easily cleaned with Mother's Aluminum Polish or Simichrome and 000 steel wool.

Ceramic Coating
Some list members recommend ceramic coating your header.  Ceramic coating keeps the pipes cooler and often gives a horsepower boost.  It will also prevent the header from changing color and most companies guarantee their coatings for life.  One list member says that he can touch his coated header pipe right at the motor without burning his hand only minutes after performing a run at the track.  Dale Walker now offers a header for the Bandit 600 and 1200 that is Jet Hot ceramic coated.  For more info on ceramic coating contact:
Airborne Coating
Swain Technology
Jet Hot

Replacement Headers

Holeshot Vortex
Holeshot makes an aftermarket stepped header for the Bandit 600/1200.  The unit gives a more than 50% weight savings and a good boost in horsepower.  It comes Jet Hot coated in a high luster silver.

Exhaust Canisters (Mufflers)

Holeshot Vortex
By far the most popular aftermarket canister on the market.  It's designed to fit both 600 and 1200 Bandits.  The biggest difference between this pipe and others is that it comes with a tube which eliminates the heavy stock elbow pipe.  This is a weight savings of 7lb. over stock.  In addition to weight savings, this pipe generally gives 12-13 horsepower and 9ft-lb of torque over stock without rejetting (Bandit 1200).  The Vortex comes in a 4" diameter, not the 4.5" diameter offered by most aftermarket pipes.  Highly recommended.

RF900RR Canister
The exhaust canister from the Suzuki RF900 will fit the Bandit with some slight modifications. The RF can is much less restrictive than the stock Bandit unit and generally gives power gains without being as loud as other exhausts like the Holeshot Vortex. You will need to reuse the stock Bandit exhaust gasket (the one between the muffler and the intermediate tube). Part #14181-31E00

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MISCELLANEOUS

Bodywork

If you ever need to remove the Bandit bodywork (and you will) it's recommended that you put a light coat of white lithium grease on the securing tabs before reinstalling.  This will make it easier to remove the bodywork next time and will help prevent cracking the bodywork or breaking off any retaining tabs.

Japanese Logos
Some Bandit owners have put Japanese Kanji characters on their bikes similar to the characters on the side of the Hayabusa. These graphics (and pretty much everything else you can think of) are obtainable from Tapeworks.

Fairings and Windscreens

Unfortunately there are so many variables involved that there is no general consensus among list members as to what works best, and finding one you like is likely to involve some experimentation.  Larger models offer more protection but more adverse effects on stability, handling, top speed, and possibly visibility.  Models that are designed, or can be adjusted, so that the air stream breaks clean from the edges, rather than churning up a lot of turbulence, will be quieter and more comfortable. Having your helmet entirely in a clean air stream will produce less noise and buffeting than having the top inch in a paint-shaker turbulent zone. Your height & posture also are factors, as is your helmet; some are quieter than others.  Getting Gold Wing-like protection may well require something so large you have to look through the plastic, which will result in at least some reduction in vision. There's always at least a little distortion, and it goes downhill from there as bugs, road grime, and scratches accumulate or if it rains.  Popular replacements for the stock unit include:

Lockhart Phillips
Lockhart produces a windscreen that is the same size and shape as the OEM original, but comes in a dark smoke tint.

Zero Gravity
Produces a stock-size replacement as well as larger models.  Many list members report success with the 2"-over model, though there is one report that the mounting holes were not properly positioned.  This screen generally offers less wind on the shoulders and torso but slightly more helmet buffeting.
2" larger smoke color - Part #12-170-02

Secdem
This is a European company which offers a screen that is approximately the same size of the stock shield but has a "flip-up" at the edge to direct airflow higher.  This shield is carried by different companies depending on where you are in Europe.  This is also available through a Canadian company. Click HERE for info.
BS 057 HP - 97.57 Euros

Cheetah SST
This windscreen is manufactured by National Cycle and is approximately 4" taller than stock and slightly wider than stock. ~$50US

Buell Cyclone Flyscreen
This screen is used by many "naked" Bandit owners.  It is just big enough to cover the gauges and deflect some of the chest blast that comes from riding a naked bike.  You can buy it direct from your local HD/Buell dealer unfinished.  Keep in mind that you will need to have the screen painted (which can cost more than the parts themselves) or paint it yourself.  Part numbers are as follows:
Part# 59772-97y Fairing $42.95
Part# 59745-97y Rt. Brkt. $ 3.75
Part# 59746-97Y Lt. Brkt. $ 3.75

Holeshot Flyscreen
This is essentially the Buell Cyclone screen with brackets made to fit the Holeshot Headlight Retro kit.
Part# B-WFS  $84.95

Naked Conversions

Fairing/Naked Swap
The easiest way to convert your Bandit from a faired model to a naked model (or vice versa) is to find someone from Europe or Canada who is looking to add an S-model fairing to their bike.  Many Bandit owners have successfully swapped parts across the border and ended up with a bike that suits their tastes better as well as being just a little different from the rest.  You may also be able to find the necessary parts to complete a conversion from a salvage yard.

Holeshot Headlight Retro Kit
This is a kit offered by Dale Walker's Holeshot which features a custom bracket and carbon-look headlight bucket.  It is different in appearance from the stock unit.  This product features built-in mounts so that you can preserve your original turn signals and an optional flyscreen.  Also note that this light is frame mounted, not fork mounted.  This is unique in the fact that the light points straight ahead when you turn the handlebars.

SV650 Headlight Conversion
Click here for a how-to article on this procedure

Emgo Brackets and 7" GS/GSX Headlight
The Emgo brackets are universal and designed to fit a headlight to most any bike.  They must be "altered" a bit to fit on the Bandit but you can get the brackets and headlight for under $30US if you source a headlight from the salvage yard.

Fairing Lowers

Many companies, including Lockhart Phillips and Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse, offer fairing lowers to fit the Bandit.  A few owners have seen these lowers on other bikes and found them to be of poor quality.  For now, none of these pieces is recommended for use.

Rear Wheel Huggers

Basically, a rear wheel hugger is an inner fender that is attached to the rear swing arm.  It is designed to keep dirt off the rear suspension and provide aerodynamic assistance by reducing drag from the rear wheel.  Truth be told, most people just buy them because they look so cool.  Several companies make huggers to fit the Bandit 600 and 1200.  See links below for more info.
PowerBronze Hugger

Speedometer Replacements

Many list members use the Sigma 800 and Sigma 1200 bicycle computers.  They are extremely accurate (even at high speeds) and feature clock, odometer, trip-meter, top speed, speedo, average speed, etc. depending on which model you purchase.  Wireless models are also available at additional cost.  These are available at your local bicycle shop or through www.nashbar.com.
From ~$20US depending on model

Handlebars

Katana Clip-ons
The clip-on handlebars from a 1989-90 Katana reportedly fit the Bandit 600 without much modification.  This swap significantly lowers and narrows handlebar height.  Pricing varies but the needed parts can usually be obtained from a salvage yard for $50-100.  These will not fit the B-12 without machining as the B-12 uses 2mm larger fork tubes.

Alternate Handlebars
Many companies make replacement steel and aluminum handlebars for the Bandit including K&N, Holeshot, and others.  Some bars are designed for comfort while others are designed with less rise for a more sporty feel.  Which bar is right for you will depend on what you're looking for out of the swap.  Compare the stock rise and pullback versus the bar that you're looking for.  Keep in mind that if you change handlebars, you may have to get extended brake/clutch/electrical lines.  Also, your hands/grips may come in contact with the fairing or gas tank if the bars are too extreme.
Stock bars - 2" rise, 4" pullback
Other available bars:
AFAM Aluminum bars (no longer produced)
Drag bars from National Cycle
K&N Superbike Bars (no longer produced)
Renthal Ultralow bars
Holeshot bars

Grip Heaters

Kimpex
The Kimpex heaters are thin, flexible pieces of printed circuit heating element that you use with your own grips. This has the advantages of letting you use any grips you want.  You can replace your grips without buying new heaters, and they are much cheaper than regular heated grips. They came from the snowmobile world, so that's another source of dealers if you want to get some.  Installation of the heating elements is easy, just take the old grips off, clean the handlebar surface, peal off the backing paper from the heaters and stick them on your handlebars. Handlebar grips slide on easily if you lube them with some alcohol. It dries faster than water or soap and the grips stick nicely.  You can use the Euro light connector up by the instrument cluster (unused on US models) for power. Be sure to mount the resistor for the heater elements someplace where it will get cooling air.  Another thing to note is that one heater will have a higher resistance than the other.  You should mount the higher resistance (least hot) heater on the throttle side as the plastic sleeve for the throttle acts as an insulator and requires less heat.
Kimpex Part #912025  ~$25US.
Motorcycle Acc. Whse Part# 12170
Dennis Kirk Part# 39-31 (snomobile catalog)
May be available from your local dealer

Saddlebags

Givi (Invisible) Mounting
One common complaint about Givi luggage is how ugly the rack is on the bike when the bags are not on. Larry Betts suggests the following: Remove the rack except for the hard part (the part under the rear body work). All you need to do do to make this easy is drill a couple of holes in your rear fender as a place to mount the GIVI rear turn signals. I used the long hex bar and a little hardware to act as a spacer between them and mounted them flush to the fender. Looks really trick and you can reinstall your rack in less than 10 minutes whenever you need it. The two pieces of hardware that stay on the bike are totally invisible.

Wolfman
One list member recommends Wolfman luggage.  This company offers a wide variety of luggage including tankbags, tailpacks, and saddle bags.

Tailbags

Givi
Givi makes several different models of luggage that will work on the Bandit.  The most recommended of these is the E460 (46 liter) top case.  It comes with provisions for an optional second brake light (around $20 USD).  This taps into the stock brake light wiring and works quite well. The topcase and rack stick out over the stock brake light which can make it hard for drivers to see. The second brake light is at eye level for drivers, so they respond to it better.  Owners report that the handle can be a bit uncomfortable when carrying the case off the bike.  The case can be mounted using either the E140 Wingrack or the newer N140 Wingrack.  Some list members have reported the need for longer bolts in order to mount the Wingrack securely.  One advantage of these bags is that they use the Givi Monokey system which enables you to get saddlebags that share a key with the top case.  Prepare to pay a premium for this luggage as it is top quality. Givi
also sells stick-on second brake lights for use with any other bag, but they don't look quite as integrated and possibly could fall off.

Emgo Cycle Travel Trunk
This is a Givi-like hard bag which is designed to attach to a tail-rack.  It looks very similar to Givi luggage and even has the red reflective band around the rear portion.  It comes with a base plate that is designed to be mounted to a luggage rack of some sort.  The box snaps into place on the base plate and locks.  To remove, you unlock the box from the base plate with the supplied key and push down a round release button.  Installation and removal both take about 5 seconds.  Very quick and easy.  The trunk is large enough to hold a full face helmet and leather coat and is reported to be very leak proof.  Some list members have successfully attached this bag to the Suzuki OEM luggage rack but this is not recommended.  The Suzuki rack is rated at 4.4lb max weight which is not much more than the empty trunk.  It's also very small - barely big enough to mount the trunk's base plate.  The preferred mounting method would be to purchase the Givi tail rack and mount the bag to it.
JC Whitney #01AA7126N
~$79.95US
11.5"H X 19"W X 16.5"L

Eclipse Fastpack Tailtrunk
This bag is available for about $65 and features a shoulder strap and adjustable bungee system.  It is reported to have enough room for an overnight trip, though exact carrying capacity is unknown.

Tankbags

General Info
Most riders recommend magnetic over bungee/strap-on bags due to their versatility and ease of use.  This is especially important on long trips where the bag must be removed to refuel.  As with any bag, you must be very careful when installing or removing the bag to prevent scratching the tank.  Also, you should make sure to check the bag before each use to ensure that no sharp or rough objects have become embedded in the bags mounting surface.  You should also keep in mind that tank bras can cause magnetic bags to not say put.

Chase Harper
These bags come in many different styles and colors.  They are a bit more pricey than some other bags but are extremely durable and well thought out.

Marsee
This is another recommended maker of tailbags and tankbags.  They have an entire line of bags available at: http://www.marseeproducts.com/

Messenger Bags
Timbuk2 is a San Fransisco based company that produces some very nice messenger bags - designed and used by bicycle messengers.  The 'El Ocho' comes highly recommended by several list members.  It measures 18" wide by 10" high and has an adjustable harness.  This same company offers other messenger bags in different sizes and styles.

Seats

Replacement seats often require the use of some pieces from the stock seat (the Corbin, for instance). If you want to be able to quickly interchange your stock and aftermarket seat, you'll need the following pieces:
1 "Striker plate" P/N: 45210-26E00. ~$18US
2 "Washers" P/N: 08212-06201 ~$2US

Horns

Hella
"The only mod you will have to do is clip the tabs between the wire leads for the horn connecter cause the blade terminals are father apart on the Hella horn, they plug right in. I drilled another hole in the horn mounting strip to bring the horn up in the fairing and put a slight "s" bend in it to clear the edge of the fairing. I don't know if you can mount it with the fairing on,I had mine off along with the forks so it installed easily. Longevity- I've had one in my Honda for about 5(tundra) years and it still keeps blasting.  The silver dulled a little but I didn't want a chrome one either."

Available from Performance Unlimited Motoring Accessories at a discount for Bandit-Talk list members.  Ask for Paul and tell him your from the Bandit E-mail list.
$25.75 (20%off) +shipping - no tax
Hella part# is 66006

Air Horns
Some list members have reported success with air horns.  Things to look out for with this type of horn are relay problems (air horns require a relay, make sure your horn comes with one) and mounting issues.  Since air horns are larger, they can be somewhat more difficult to mount than a stock or Hella unit, especially on unfaired bikes.  Make sure to mount the horn facing partially downward so that water does not pool inside the horn.  You should also be careful not to block airflow to the oil cooler since some air horns are relatively large.
www.wolo-mfg.com/

Tank Bras

There are only two known tank bras available for the Bandit.  One is the Suzuki OEM model, and the other is the Lockhart Phillips model.  Both have received favorable reports from list members.  The Lockhart is reportedly available in both a full and half cover while the Suzuki unit is only available in the half version.  The Suzuki version also has the word "Bandit" scripted on it in the same lettering as the OEM decals. Because the 600 and 1200 Bandits both use the same tank, parts made for one will fit the other.
Suzuki bra (96-99): Part #99950-64025 ~$30US

Touch-up Paint

Touch-up paint can be obtained either through your local dealer or directly through Color-Rite (which supplies the dealer and factory).  Color-Rite can be contacted at 800-736-7980.

Bandit Color codes:
Candy Academy Maroon - 22U
Dark British Green Metallic - Y7G
Dusk Blue - Y0N
Pearl Novelty Black - 33J
Charcoal Metallic (engine and wheels only) - 35W

Many list members report that the blue from 96 Geo Prism's is an exact match for the blue on the Bandit.  This is GM color "Pacific Blue 47U WA 302C"; PPG aftermarket code 5146.

Fork Protectors

Triumph Fork Protectors
These can be purchased at any Triumph dealer for ~$15-20US.  They are basically just a small piece of plastic which sits over the fork seals and directs wind, rocks, and bugs away from the part of the fork which the seals normally contact.
Triumph part# A9641005 fits Bandit 600.
Triumph part# A9641010 fits the Bandit 1200.

The 2001 B12 comes with fork protectors and should fit the 96 to 00 B-12. Not sure if the 2001 B6 has them or not, but if so, should fit the older B6's also.

Mirrors

 Napoleon Bar End Mirror
Users have reported mixed reviews on these mirrors.  Apparently the standard levers *may* hit part of the mirror stalk if pulled all the way in.  One list member reports that the mirrors do not stay on well.  However, the author has these mirrors installed on his Bandit 1200 and they seem to work fine.  The are much better looking than the "bug antennae" stock mirrors but get extremely buzzy at higher RPM's making them virtually useless on the highway.  These mirrors are available at most motorcycle supply shops.

Napoleon Black Out Mirrors
These are sold at a number of places (including Holeshot) and are much nicer looking than the stock round mirrors.  They come in a short and long stemmed version.

Lockhart-Phillips Bar End Mirror
Part #108-100
These mirrors are reportedly fairly expensive.  They are round and fit 7/8" handlebars.  Look to be of high quality but may be cost prohibitive.  No reports available. Constructors

Hindsight Bar End Mirror
These are nearly identical to the mirrors available at Lockhart-Phillips and are priced similarly.  No reports available.

Ken Sean GPX Mirrors
These are black, rectangular, long stem mirrors that fit the Bandit.
~$12US from Dennis Kirk
DK Part #: 39-261 (R), 39-260 (L)

Slipstreamer Mirror Mount Adapter
These are sold for their aftermarket windscreens but work well to extend aftermarket mirrors so that you see more than your elbows.  They screw into the stock mirror mounts and extend them up about 1.5 inches. They have a hole in the middle for mounting the windscreen hardware (not needed in this application) and they are very solid because they also act as windscreen mounts. They are painted black and do not appear to add any vibration.

The Slipstreamer part number is '010Y' or (in older catalogs) A1Y, and they only sell one type of mirror adapters, so it's tough to get it wrong.  Available from Chaparral for $10.99.  They are also available in Europe from M&K for about £5.

GSXR Mirrors
At least one list member has successfully mounted GSXR mirrors to the Bandit fairing.  Unfortunately, said Bandit has since been wrecked so we have no pictures or reports to post.

Security

Kryptonite NY Chain
You can buy the very same chain that Kryptonite uses for much less money via McMaster-Carr.  This is handy if you need a length other than 5.5 ft (the only length that Kryptonite sells) or if you already have a lock.  The bare chain is priced at ~$9US/foot and can be obtained through McMaster-Carr's web site.  You can also get a nylon sleeve to cover the chain for ~$2US/foot.

Storage (Winter)

Click here for a document on Winter storage

Drag Racing

Click here to read about Drag Racing tips, rules, and regulations

Motorcycle Shipping

Motorcycles must be completely emptied of fluids (gas, oil, etc.) before they can be shipped.  See the link below for more details:
MotoDirectory shipping companies

Importing Motorcycles

Click for an article on importing motorcycles to the US from Canada.  This article is written about the Suzuki SV 650 but most of the info should pertain to the Bandit as well.

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TOOLS

Carb Synch Tool
The most highly recommended carb synch tool is the Morgan Carbtune II.  This has been recommended by several list members as being better than mercury and guage-type tools and was the recommended tool in a RiDE magazine carb synch tool shootout.  Many list members advise against mercury tools because of the possibility of breakage and the toxicity of the mercury in the tool.  The Carbtune is said to give the best of both worlds as it does NOT use mercury.

Valve Adjustment Tool
This tool works on the B-6, B-12, 750 Katana's, and GSX-R's
Available through authorized Suzuki dealers for ~$5US
Suzuki Part# 09917-14920

Mikuni Pocket Tuner
Available from Dennis Kirk for ~$6US
Part #28-189

Compression tester
JC Whitney features the following:
Compression tester for all motorcycles.  Includes 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm long reach adaptors.
Part# 14AJ7807N $27.95

Motion Pro Pilot Adjustment Tool
This tool is designed to make carburetor pilot adjustment easier.  It's a special, angled screwdriver that helps keep you from getting frustrated and burned when working on those carbs.  Craftsman makes a similar tool.  No part number or price available on the Craftsman model.
Chaparral Part#315-8119  ~$22US

Tire Repair
Note that these are only meant as short-term repairs.  Whenever you have a problem with your motorcycle tire, you should remove it for repair/replacement as soon as possible.  These kits will, however, get you on the road again in an emergency.  It generally takes 6 or more CO2 cartridges to inflate a completely flat rear tire.

"Fix-A-Flat"
"Fix-A-Flat" type products are NOT recommended.  Some of these use flammable gas for the propellant.  Also, these products generally use some sort of "goop" to coat the inside of the tire and fill in the puncture hole.  When you take the tire in for repair or replacement, the shop will either decline to work on your bike because of the mess inside or they may possibly charge you extra as a cleaning fee.  Make life easier on yourself and your mechanic and forget about these products.

Engine Powered Pump
There are some pumps on the market which inflate your tire with air from the engine.  Basically, they work by installing a one-way valve into a sparkplug hole and running a hose to the engine.  The advantages of these kits is that you never run out of air (so long as your engine will run) and they are fairly compact and light.  The disadvantage is that most kits have a very short hose length that will not usually reach the rear tire.  Removing the entire rear wheel to fix a simple puncture is not my idea of fun.

"Moto Pump Ultra Flat Tire Inflator"
 Chaparral part# 307-0616 - $12.99 
Comes with 1 cartridge.  Go to your nearest sporting goods store and purchase a five-pack (or two) of cartridges (~$7US/pk.) and then go to Wal-Mart or other discount auto parts place and buy a sealed pack of Gooey strips for radial tires (~$2) and an installation tool set (~$4).

"Progressive Suspension" tubeless kit w/inflator
Chaparral Part# 307-0609 - $21.99.
"I don't like the complete kit style because their repair plugs are real short cone shaped things and are harder to install.  On the other hand, the Progressive inflator pump has an adapter hose (flex hose) that may work better on a front tire where getting around the brake rotor may be difficult."

RK Chain Riveter
The instructions that come with the RK unit are more detailed than those of the Motion-Pro rivet tool and include photos and illustrations.  However; the RK tool is not multi-purpose.  It only rivets while the Motion-Pro rivets and breaks chains.  It has a solid (not hollow, like the MP) threaded ram and a cone shaped anvil (the part that flares/crimps the pins).  It's marked with a line around the cone to indicate proper insertion depth when the crimp is done.  It is specifically designed for 520-632 O-Ring chains - not smaller.  Prices vary by region but this tool is fairly expensive.

Motion Pro Chain Riveter
Available through Chapparal or JCWhitney.  The JCWhitney model is cheaper and comes with press plates to press the side links on.  The Chaparral tool does not have this part.  Dale Walker can also get this tool for a good price.
  Cost: ~$55-65US

Motion-Pro Chain Breaker/Side Plate Press
Very heavy duty looking.  The tools work well and are not very expensive.  Having these tools is far superior to using a C-clamp or Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel.

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ENGLISH/METRIC CONVERSION

Click here to download Convert for Windows.  This is a freeware program that will convert from English to Metric and vice versa.  It can handle most everything from Torque to Temperature.  Note that it comes as a .zip file so you will need a utility like WinZip to install/use the program.  Also, this program will only run on Win9x or better (NT will probably work but has not been tested).  Win3.x/Linux/Mac is not supported.

Check out http://www.x-rates.com/ to convert monetary values such as British pounds (£) to US Dollars ($).

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